Fiddleheads and Bacon over Pasta

Mother Nature is a cruel mistress, as any Manitoban can tell you right now. We woke yesterday morning to a very pretty but unseasonable white blanket of snow covering everything in sight. But despite the snow, spring is still happening. Don’t believe me? Check the stores. For a very limited time, you can find fiddlehead ferns at specialty markets and small grocers like Vic’s Fruit Market on Pembina.

Fiddlehead

Fiddleheads are the very young, fresh growth of the ostrich fern. Fiddlehead season is limited to only a few weeks in the spring. Before fiddlehead season, the ferns haven’t popped up yet. After fiddlehead season, the fiddleheads have unfurled and become ferns. They also don’t travel very well, so they’re very much an “eat while available” seasonal food. And they’re harvested from the wild, so they are limited in supply, and can be a bit expensive. They are definitely a briefly available delicacy.

Because fiddleheads can taste very bitter before being cooked, you shouldn’t eat them raw. Instead, blanch them in boiling water for about 4 minutes and then shock them in ice water before using them. But aside from that difference, they can be used in many of the same ways that asparagus is used. Like other foods that are very seasonal and are only available in limited quantities, I prefer giving fiddleheads a simple treatment. This showcases the flavour that we won’t get to experience again for another year.

I have only found fiddleheads here pre-packaged for you. But if you get to select your own, pick out fiddleheads that are still tightly curled and not too big.

Fiddleheads and bacon pasta

For these particular fiddleheads, I made a quick and easy pasta dish. To make it, you will need:

  • 1/2 pound fiddleheads (or at minimum two nice handfuls)
  • 6 slices bacon, diced
  • 1 medium onion, diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/2 cup white wine
  • 1 tsp red pepper flakes
  • about 1 lb angel hair pasta

Boil a small pot of water for the fiddleheads, and a larger pot for the pasta. Salt the pasta water. Clean the fiddleheads by removing any brown skins and cutting off the tips of the stems.

Once the small pot is boiling, add the fiddleheads. While the fiddleheads are boiling, prepare an ice water bath. After about four minutes, the fiddleheads should be bright green. Remove them from the boiling water and put them in the ice water bath. Set aside.

Heat a medium frying pan over medium high heat. Add the bacon, and cook until it begins to get crispy. Tilt the pan and carefully spoon out all but one tablespoon of bacon fat.

Add the onions to the frying pan, and lower the heat to medium. Cook until the onion begins to get translucent. Add the garlic and toss well.

Add the wine to the frying pan. Let the sauce reduce. (If you like a richer sauce, add a pat of butter.) Add the red pepper flakes.

Toss the angel hair pasta into the larger pot of boiling water. Cook to al dente according to the package instructions.

Drain the fiddleheads, and rinse with fresh water again. Drain, and add them to the frying pan. Toss well to heat the fiddleheads through.

Serve the fiddlehead mixture over the pasta. If you like, serve topped with a bit of Parmesan cheese. Serves four.

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Food Policies Make an Appearance on Election Platforms – Finally!

It was with a great deal of excitement – and a healthy dose of cynicism – that I read that all of the major parties have included food and agriculture concerns as part of their platforms.

Lettuce.

Food is such an incredibly important part of everyone’s lives and community, and I’m heartened that the parties are finally taking note of this. However, I also agree with Rod MacRae, who was quoted in the Globe and Mail on why these issues are finally getting some attention:

On Monday, the parties will hash out their respective policies at a debate in Ottawa. But one food policy critic said none of the platforms are detailed enough to take seriously.

“None of them really link the food story to health care that well, or to social-policy reform,” said Rod MacRae, a professor at York University who is one of Canada’s foremost experts on the subject. “What they’ve done is pick the low-hanging fruit – the things that are more part of the public consciousness right now.”

And really, when you look at the details of the platforms and plans, that’s really all we see: the superficial issues surrounding Canada’s food policy – or rather, it’s lack thereof. Over the past several years, people have become more and more aware of where their food comes from, and they are starting to see the problems in the current food system. All the political parties have done is grab what big issues have gotten the most traction, and wiggled them into their platforms.

The Globe article has a summary of each of the major parties’ platforms, or you can go to each party’s website and read their full platform for yourself. It’s a lot of good stuff, although each party has areas where they’re a bit weak. For example, the Greens have a lot of good ideas, but seem to be missing some of the “big picture” stuff like the challenges of feeding a growing nation with a dwindling number of farms, while the Conservatives seem to be focused on “big agriculture” while ignoring the needs of the consumers who want choice.

Here’s what I’d like to see addressed in more detail:

Education components for food strategies. While the Liberals and the NDP talk about educating students on healthy food choices, no party goes into much detail about education for all Canadians, not just the young. While I agree that the basis for change is best approached through young people, food issues are complicated and people have a difficult time understanding the issues involved. Federal assistance in the development of local food policy councils, such as those in Vancouver and Toronto, would assist people in understanding the issues that local farmers, producers and consumers are facing.

Consumer choice. The boondoggle with Peak of the Market and Manitoba’s potato growers last spring and the ongoing fight for raw milk producers shows that consumers want to be able to choose and eat the foods that they want. In some cases, the government steps in and tells them, “No, you can’t.” A little less nanny-state and a little more flexibility for non-mainstream foods (like raw milk and cheese) would be nice. I’m also not fond of the condescension that is sometimes leveled at consumers when it comes to food safety.

Food safety. This ties in nicely with my previous points. An educated consumer is a safe consumer, because they are able to make smart decisions about their food choices. But at the same time, food needs to be produced in a safe manner. I was highly irritated during the Maple Leaf Foods listeriosis outbreak in 2008 when it seemed that the CFIA and Health Canada were turning around the problem onto consumers with their trotted out tag lines that listeria can be killed by heating the food. We saw the same thing when E.coli cropped up in spinach in 2006. I don’t know about you, but I typically don’t microwave my deli meat or thoroughly cook my spinach salad before eating it. Letting large food corporations monitor their own food safety alone (or having announced inspections, which might as well mean no inspections at all) strikes me as silly. The Conservatives, the Liberals and the Bloc all promise more funds for the CFIA.

But again, my cynicism is showing – no matter who is elected, I doubt there will be any substantive change. It’ll remain up to each individual to do their research and make smart decisions about what they eat, at least until government really gets it.

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French Zucchini Toast

If you follow me on Twitter, you might have seen that I have a lot of zucchini in the freezer to deal with. We love zucchini bread, and like all quick breads it’s crazy easy to make. So I’ve slowly been going through the frozen zucchini by keeping us in zucchini bread. Oh, the hardship.

This morning, as I was pondering what to do about breakfast, my eyes rested on the zucchini bread. “I wonder,” I said to myself, “whether I could make french toast with zucchini bread.” After all, french toast is just an eggy bread. Would what type of “bread” it is matter?

French Zucchini Toast

And the answer is no! It doesn’t matter in the least. In fact, using zucchini bread gave the french toast a distinctly different flavour that I really liked. And hey – it’s just french toast, so it’s super easy to make!

Recipe: make french toast, using zucchini bread instead of regular bread. If you need more specific instructions, read on.

For two servings, you will need:

  • 4 slices of zucchini bread* (about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick)
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 1 TB sugar
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
  • pinch of salt
  • 1 TB butter

*Note: this would probably be better if you sliced the bread the night before and left it out to dry overnight. I sliced and cooked right away, though, and it worked great, too.

Whisk the eggs with the milk, sugar, vanilla and salt in a bowl with a flat bottom.

Soak the bread slices in the egg mixture, flipping them around to get both sides. Place them on a plate after dipping them. If you have any leftover egg mixture, pour it over the bread slices. Let them sit for about 10 minutes.

In a frying pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Carefully lay the soaked bread slices in the frying pan. Fry them on one side for about four minutes, and flip. Cook them on the other side for another 3-4 minutes. Be careful not to burn them!

Serve with a pat of butter and a drizzle of some good maple syrup.

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Eye Candy: Pancake Brunch

We are up against a deadline at work. No matter how much planning and preparation you do, your plans can be totally derailed if your work depends on other departments. As a result, I have been working a fair amount of overtime lately, and haven’t had much time for writing.

Last weekend, though, I did make time for a communal brunch with friends. One person hosted, while others provided sausage, bacon, eggs, coffee, bread, and all the other things and go into a pancake feast. We even had gluten-free pancakes for our friend with a gluten-intolerance. It was nice to relax, even just for a few hours, and stuff ourselves silly.

Orange Juice

Syrup

Pancake batter

Bacon

Bread

Bacon!

Eggs

Brunch

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Garden planning, 2011

Although it may not feel like it, winter is slowly slipping away. We can tell because we’re no longer going to work in darkness or coming home in twilight. Daylight savings time starts next Sunday, and spring officially starts on March 21. It’s deceiving looking out the window at all that snow, but underneath the white blanket my flowers are thinking about waking up.

Framed.

Just like last year, our schedule looks a bit crazy right around planting time. Consequently, I will not be starting seeds indoors again. (Boo.) So we will have a trip to the nurseries for bedding plants. However, I will soon order the seeds that will be started outdoors.

Based on last season’s records, I am going with a lot of the same varieties. The onions did quite well, as did the peas that I usually order. I’ve been pretty loyal to the pole beans that I usually get, and the quantity of beans that we got was astounding. (We are still eating those beans!)

Lettuce in situ.

But the real news story from last year was the lettuce. The variety we got was butterhead variety called Matina Sweet. It was a good starter, had nice-sized heads, and was slow to bolt (a huge problem we deal with in the summer heat). Plus, it was darn tasty. The heads themselves were the perfect size for a two-person side salad, so we helped ourselves to a lot of salad out of the garden last summer.

I will be skipping the pumpkins, though. Until I can get the weedy side of our garden whipped into some kind of submission, there’s no point in planting any type of viney gourd over there. The slugs just think that I’ve set up a banquet and help themselves.

We will be rounding out the garden with zucchini (no sense in not planting a sure thing), a slicing tomato, a paste tomato, maybe a cherry tomato, and a vegetable to be determined later. I always try to pick one new thing each year, just trying to see what might do well in my garden. Last year it was the onion sets, which did well enough that they earned a spot in this year’s garden as well. The year before that it was cabbage, which was nice but also seemed to attract slugs like no one’s business. I would love to try out these short-season artichokes, but they’ll have to wait for a year when I can start my own seeds (unless I find a nursery that has started them for me!)

Also new last year was the herb garden. I’ve put this firmly in my husband’s hands, since the vegetable and flower gardens keep me busy enough. He set up an array of pots last summer and filled them with thyme, lavender, basil, rosemary, mint, and strawberries. I loved having the fresh herbs on hand, and now that we have a better idea of what did well and what did too well (I’m looking at you, lemon thyme) he’ll plan out his contribution to our garden again this year.

Mmm… I can almost taste the strawberry rhubarb pies now.

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The Tallest Poppy (aka, Where to take your friends for brunch)

When you are driving north up Main Street from downtown, it can be easy to miss. Nestled next to the New Occidental is a restaurant with a cheerful yellow sign hanging over the door and a bear mannequin in the front window. It looks small and unassuming, but it’s one of my candidates for Best Brunch in Winnipeg. It’s a restaurant called The Tallest Poppy.

Brunch.

The Tallest Poppy has a lunch menu that makes me all kinds of happy (variety! surprise! creativity!), but I’m here today to tell you about their brunch. Brunch is a special sort of meal for me, combining some of my favourite breakfast foods with a much later time frame, and it eases me into lunchtime foods at the same time. The Tallest Poppy’s brunch does all this and serves local food whenever possible? Free run eggs? Antibiotic-free, naturally-raised meats? Yes, please!

We’d been to the restaurant for lunch a few times, but one Sunday morning we decided to try their brunch. I was sold on the first visit. Brunch at The Tallest Poppy is a four-course set affair, served family-style. What this means is that if there are four people at your table, you will each get a plate. Then the food arrives on a platter and you can help yourself to however much you want. You know – just like your family did. And just like back home, what you get depends on what the cook decided to make. The staff at The Tallest Poppy check for allergies or other dietary concerns before the food arrives, though, and do their best to help out people with dietary restrictions.

Brunch at the Tallest Poppy

So if you can’t pick what you’re having, what types of food can you expect? Well, we’ve been there for brunch many times now, and it’s different each time. However, there are themes. Fruit and vegetable salads are common at the beginning of the meal, although once we got smoothies and cute little individual oatmeal servings. Scones and latkes often grace the table, followed by omelets, quiches, or frittatas, often served with amazing sausages and bacon. And finally, there is dessert. Breakfast never has dessert – brunch always should. (Another reason why brunch is superior to breakfast.) Pie, lemon squares, cookies and muffins, oh my!

The brunch itself is $25 per person, but that includes everything, including the usual breakfast drinks (including Black Pearl coffee), tip, and taxes. (So really, if you figure $2 per drink, brunch itself is only about $17.) One note, though – it’s cash only!

Tallest Poppy's Twitter feed

The Tallest Poppy has an active Twitter account, where you can often find their specials and what’s on for brunch. Watching their Twitter feed for a while will give you an idea of the sort of things they serve for brunch. Bonus – you’ll also get their lunch specials during the week, and a neat little peek into restaurant life.

The Tallest Poppy is located at 631 Main Street. Brunch is served on Sundays only. They open for brunch on Sunday at about 10am, although during the winter they’ve been opening at 9am. If you have a large group, call ahead – their cozy dining room fills up quickly.

If you’re a friend of ours, and you’re in town one Sunday, don’t be surprised if we decide to drag you off for brunch at The Tallest Poppy. I love showing off Winnipeg’s excellent restaurants to visitors, and The Tallest Poppy is definitely on that list.

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Creamy Scrambled Eggs and Spinach

It’s getting to be that difficult time of year here in Winnipeg. The holidays are long past, but winter will just drag on and on for at least another month and a half. I find myself crawling out of bed later and later on weekends, unwilling to face the cold.

What makes it better? Brunch. If I’m going to climb out of bed an hour late on Sundays, I might as well combine breakfast and lunch for efficiency. To that end, this savory twist on scrambled eggs fits the bill.

Creamy Scrambled Eggs and Spinach

We’ve been using Gordon Ramsey’s method for making scrambled eggs for a while, and this variation works splendidly. It produces a creamy, almost smooth scrambled egg dish that is so different from the dry clods you’re used to from the local diner. It takes a lot longer than the “usual” way, but the results are so much better.

For this recipe you’ll need a medium non-stick saucepan and a silicone spoonula. I’ve tried making these scrambled eggs in a non-stick pan… and it wasn’t pretty. Do your dishwasher a favour!

As for ingredients, you’ll need:

  • 2 cups fresh spinach, roughly chopped
  • 1 TB olive oil
  • 6 eggs
  • 2 cubic inches feta cheese, crumbled (or about 3 tablespoons crumbled)
  • fresh ground black pepper
  • salt (optional)

A note about the cheese: I like goats’ milk feta, but you can use any feta you prefer.

Fill the saucepan about half full of water and bring to a boil. Add the spinach, stir, and let wilt for about three minutes. Drain the spinach and dry the pan. Squeeze as much water as you can out of the spinach. (You can do this easily by putting the wilted spinach in a bowl and using the back of a spoon to press the spinach against the side of the bowl. Tilt the bowl to drain the water, and the damp spinach will stick to the sides of the bowl.)

Whisk the eggs in a separate bowl until they are a uniform yellow.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the drained spinach to the oil and quickly stir to break up the clump. Add the eggs and stir. Stir constantly over medium heat. Keep scraping the bottom of the pan to make sure clumps of cooked egg aren’t forming. If the egg mixture starts to set up too quickly, remove the pan from the heat and keep stirring. Return to the heat once you’ve broken up any clumps that started to form.

This will take a while, so be patient! Stir, stir, stir. At about the halfway mark (probably about six minutes in), add the crumbled feta and pepper. The feta won’t melt significantly, so you might want to add a bit of salt to the eggs as well.

Continue to stir the eggs, placing the pan on the heat and removing to control the heat, until they are almost set but still glossy. This usually takes about 10 to 12 minutes. If the glossiness goes away, they are overcooked. Keep in mind that the eggs will continue to cook just a bit after being removed from the stove. (If you overcook them, don’t worry. They’ll still be as good, but won’t taste as creamy.)

Serve immediately, with fruit and toast or popovers. Serves two!

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Book Review: Last Chance to Eat

My new job is dangerously close to the Millennium Library. This means that on any given lunch break, you may see me browsing the stacks, looking for more things to read. Once I found the food section, stuffed full of cookbooks and foodie porn, I knew I was done for.

Last Chance to Eat One of my recent reads was this amazing work by Gina Mallet. Last Chance to Eat is subtitled “The Fate of Taste in a Fast Food World.” I wasn’t sure what to expect from this book I picked up on a whim. What I found was a memoir of growing up, food, taste, and what we’ve lost in the interest of progress.

The book has only five chapters, but each one is substantial, and devoted to one type of food: eggs, cheese, beef, fruits and vegetables, and fish. In each chapter, Mallet describes her clearest memories of that type of food, and then goes on to describe how that food has changed and what is available today. For example, she writes about the lowly apple: how once there were hundreds of apple varieties available in any given area, and each area of the world had its particular favourites. Over time, mostly through economics and trade, we got the situation we have today – three (or, at most, four) varieties of apples available in the average supermarket on an average day.

The story about the apples illustrates the theme running through this book: that we are slowly losing the variety of flavours that were once available to our grandparents. As larger farms and larger supermarkets need larger amounts of produce and meat to sell, the overall variety shrinks until only the most profitable varieties are left. At the Safeway or Superstore, we might find two varieties of potatoes – russet and red. If we’re lucky they might also have yellow. But at the farmers’ market I can find blue-skinned potatoes, blue-fleshed potatoes, pink potatoes, fingerlings… A wealth of variety that the mega-mart simply can’t provide.

But the loss of variety isn’t just due to market pressure, as Mallet points out. Governments have also had a hand in limiting what consumers can choose. Overly restrictive food safety regulations, such as those banning raw milk cheeses, have the state playing nanny to its silly citizens. Thus the number of foods we can choose between slowly dwindles, until we’re left with only the approved, the safe, and the most popular.

The book is interspersed with recipes using the foods she writes about. I neglected to try any of them before I returned the book, but I’ve been thinking of checking it back out for another read. Mallet’s prose is rich and dense, meandering from florid descriptions of taste and texture to reminisces of her life in Europe. And through it all, Mallet rings a gentle alarm. The next time you come across an unusual food, be it meat or cheese or vegetable, don’t be afraid to give it a try. You never know when your last chance to do so will come.

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First Impressions: Hy’s Steakhouse and Cocktail Bar

My husband is a carnivore, and for years he’s been promising to take me to Hy’s Steakhouse for a treat. We finally made it there last week, and I got my first look at the much-lauded Hy’s.

Hy’s is located at Portage and Main on the first floor of the Richardson Building. This makes it very convenient for downtown workers, since you can get to it without going outside from anywhere in the skywalk system.

From all that I’d heard, Hy’s is considered a higher-end steakhouse that caters to the business people who work in the area. Its warm, opulent-looking interior with high ceilings and rich wood paneling makes it a great place to bring a business client, although it might be a bit dark to do any serious work over dinner.

My husband loves to get a bloody caeser before dinner, and usually orders it extra spicy. The bar took him seriously, and made it extra spicy – much to his delight! The wine selection is extensive, which is good because Hy’s will not allow patrons to bring in outside wine for dinner.

Dinner entrees run from about $30 to $50 each, and come with your choice of potato or rice, and a token vegetable. (Additional vegetables can be purchased as a generous side, enough to share.) Although I didn’t order it this time, I decided I have to try the caesar salad appetizer next time; I watched in fascination as a waiter prepared the caesar dressing fresh in the dining room, and served it immediately. Desserts were quite large, much to my surprise (and to the dismay of my waistline!)

Hy’s is open for dinner at 5:00pm every day, and opens for lunch at 11:30am Monday through Friday.

First Impressions is just that – my first impressions of a restaurant. I adhere to the Food Blog Code of Ethics, and prefer to only do a full review of a restaurant after I’ve visited it at least twice, whenever possible. If I write a full review of this restaurant at a later date, I will add the link to this post.

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Chicken (or Turkey, or Duck, or Veal, or…) Stock

Before I started cooking, I considered broth and stock to be pretty much interchangeable. It’s only been fairly recently that I’ve realized there is a difference. The consensus seems to be that broth is made with meat, while stock is made with bones. Broth is suitable to be served as-is (to someone with a cold, for example). Stock, on the other hand, is usually used to make other things. Broth cooks quickly, while stock takes a long time to cook. If you put a whole chicken in a pot of water and boil it for an hour or so until the chicken is done, you have broth. If you roast a chicken, eat it, and then put the bones into a pot of water and simmer it for several hours, you have stock.

Some of the differences seem to run a bit deeper, but this seems to be a good place to start. The other thing that I should point out is that stock is insanely useful, and you should make some!

20100815

First, you need some bones. Whenever we have chicken or turkey, we almost always save the bones. (The exception is when the chicken was used in something really spicy that could bring an off flavour to the stock.) When I roast a chicken or we barbeque some chicken breasts, the bones go into a freezer bag and into the freezer. Once we have enough bones to fill our stock pot, we’ll wait until a slow Sunday afternoon and make stock.

The good stock at the grocery store can run up to $3.50 or more for a quart, and it’s always over-salted. Making your own stock at home, using stuff that you would have just thrown away, can represent some significant savings.

Plus, you can store it in quantities that make sense to you. Rather than buying a quart of stock and only using a cup, you can store your homemade stock in one, two, or four cup quantities. We typically do a mixture of these sizes: one cup bags are used for sauces, two cup bags are used for rice, quinoa or other grains, and four cup bags are used for risotto or soup. Measure the amount you want into a labeled freezer bag, press out the air, and place on a baking sheet. The bag will freeze flat, which makes it a cinch to store.

More frozen assets.

This “recipe” is more of a formula than a measured recipe. Adjust to your liking and what you have available. To make your own stock, you will need:

  • Roasted bones from poultry, beef or veal (Collect enough to fill up your largest pot.)
  • Old vegetables (Traditionally this is mireproix – carrots, celery and onion – but you can use any flavourful vegetables you have on hand.)
  • Water

Put the roasted bones into your largest pot. (When we made stock from the carcass of our 22lb Thanksgiving turkey, we used my water canner.) Add the vegetables, cut into large chunks. Cover everything with water and bring to a boil.

Once the water is boiling, lower the heat until it just simmers. Keep an eye on the stock. If foam forms on the surface of the stock, skim it off and discard. Let the stock simmer for several hours. The longer it simmers, the more gelatin and goodness will leech out of the bones and into your stock.

After several hours, remove from heat. Place a large bowl into the sink, and put a colander inside the bowl. (If you want really clear stock you can line the colander with cheesecloth, but that’s a bit too fussy for me.) Pour the stock through the colander into the bowl. Remove the colander, and discard the bones and vegetables. Use or freeze the stock as desired.

Note: I do not add salt to my stock, although I will sometimes add a small handful of peppercorns. Since I usually don’t know what I’ll be using the stock for, I prefer not to salt the stock.

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