I know burger joints. They are in clean but well-worn locations, and decorated with the detritus of the era in which they were founded: licence places, bicycles, autographed photos from celebrities, and so on. Their colours are muted, possibly faded by time, and the menu is either permanently scratched onto a chalkboard or read from laminated menus that are curled at the corners. They are uniformly quirky places, and fit well into their neighbourhoods.
Burger joints aren’t supposed to be minimalist spaces, painted a brilliant white with red accents and decorated by QR codes. The menus aren’t supposed to be shown on flatscreens over the counter. However, Unburger is all of these things, and it works. In fact, it works really well, because it is still a quirky place that fits in perfectly with its Osborne Village neighbourhood.
Unburger specializes in burgers that are fresh, locally-sourced, and hormone-free, and you can tell by the taste: quality ingredients means a quality taste. You can choose between a variety of beef, chicken and vegetarian burgers, and any beef burger can be made out of bison for an additional $2.75.
I’ve sampled several (many!) of their burgers, and have yet to be disappointed. The Bella, made with a portabella mushroom cap instead of a patty, was delicious, dressed with lettuce, tomato, onions and blue cheese. I also really enjoyed Caeser’s Offering: basically a chicken burger topped with a crispy caeser salad. But my favourite, and the one I keep going back to, is a classic: the bacon cheddar burger. Smoked bacon, Bothwell cheddar, lettuce and tomato – how can you go wrong with that?
For a unique taste, try one of their burgers that are impossible to eat in a dignified manner. I especially like recommending The Drunken Aussie to friends, if only to watch them try to eat it. It is delicious but messy: beef burger, bacon, cheddar, lettuce, grilled pineapple, sliced beets, and topped with a fried egg. (Another burger, The Donald, is also topped with a fried egg, but isn’t nearly as drippy.) I’m not knocking these burgers – in fact, I highly recommend them – but you probably shouldn’t wear your best shirt while trying to eat one, if you get my drift.
Sides are ordered separately but there is a nice selection of fries and salads. A friend tried the “Hal Johnson and Joanne McCleod 8-Grain Energy Salad” and pronounced it “yummy.” I’m afraid, however, that I’ve been stuck on the fries ever since my first visit. Our usual MO is to order a “Shareables,” which has an order each of regular and sweet potato fries accompanied by two dips. The fries, while good, are essentially vehicles for getting the dip into our mouths. We always get the rosemary garlic aioli and the chiplotle aioli, and never look back. (Seriously. Try the rosemary garlic aioli. You will not regret it.)
Unburger obviously subscribes to my notion that pop tastes better when it’s drunk directly from a glass bottle, so they have miniature bottles of Coke products in a cooler near the door. They also have a small selection of beers and wines. They carry Fort Garry, but Half Pints is notable in its absence.
Unburger is located on Stradbrooke between The Happy Cooker and Segovia. There is parking behind the restaurant, but we’ve always been able to find street parking. Unburger is open Monday through Saturday, from 11:30am to 10:00pm.