Carbone Coal Fired Pizza (aka, The wings, boss! The wings!)

With the recent announcement that Carbone will be opening a location downtown, I thought it was time to tell you a bit about this place.

But first, I’m actually going to use my university degree and give you a little information about coal.

There are lots of different types of coal, but Carbone uses anthracite in their ovens. This isn’t the dirty, frissable coal that you might picture when you first think “coal.” Instead, a chunk of anthracite would remind you more of a giant piece of graphite from a pencil.

Anthracite burns hotter than any other type of coal or wood. It also burns nearly as clean as natural gas. Because the anthracite allows the oven to get incredibly hot, pizza crusts baked in it have a lovely char on the outside with soft, chewy centres.

But enough about the coal. Let me tell you about the wings.

Wings smothered in caramelized onions

Wings! I love wings. (Side note: my personal Mecca, Quaker Steak and Lube, has finally opened a location within driving distance. As soon as I get a spare weekend, we are totally driving to Fargo for some wings.) I have found a few places that serve passable wings in Winnipeg, although I wonder if my wing snobbery is just misplaced nostalgia for the wings I had back in Ohio that I can’t get here.

However, the first time we visited Carbone, we got an order of their wings as a starter. The wings arrived at our table smothered in caramelized onions. One bite and I was hooked. I could keep going back to Carbone just for these wings. The onions melt in your mouth, and whatever they used to spice the wings complemented the onions perfectly.

(Psst! Try the wings!)

But they are a pizza place, not a wing joint, so I guess I should talk about the pizzas. On our first visit we tried the classic Italian pie, the Margherita. This is a classic, one that we make ourselves on our grill. And it tasted classic, exactly as promised. The crust had a nice crunchy char (which I’ve heard some people describe as “burnt,” but we like this style of pizza), but with a tender interior. They also didn’t make the common error of drowning the pizza in toppings, but let the simple ingredients speak for themselves.

On another visit, we tried the Peppino, topped with arugula, prosciutto and parmesan. I wasn’t as crazy about this one, but I admit that it grew on me. I think my husband enjoyed it more than I did. There was a lot of arugula on the pizza, but after folding each piece in half, sandwiching the greens in the middle, the bitter greens weren’t as overpowering. So apparently the preferred eating technique should be explained when the pizza arrives at your table.

Arugula pizza

And on that same thread, under Lessons Learned, the Ferrero is designated as a “personal size dessert pizza.” Lies! It may only be 6 inches across or so, but it’s drenched in rich melted Nutella and bananas. It was amazingly delicious, but it can easily serve four people who have just had wings and pizza.

The interior of Carbone is casual, and there are big screen TVs (tuned to sports, of course – yawn) in every corner. It can, however, get noisy as the place fills up. (Maybe I’m getting old, but yelling at your dinner companions across the table just isn’t fun.) I’m interested to see what kind of vibe their downtown location will have. They have a full bar, with weekly drink specials, and a nice selection of wines.

Carbone is located on Taylor in a strip mall, just past the tracks to the east as you turn off Keneston. They open at 11:30am on weekdays and 1pm on weekends. On Sunday to Wednesday they close at 10pm, and Thursday to Saturday they close at 11pm.

Carbone Coal Fired Pizza on Urbanspoon

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Hopes for 2013

I hope everyone had a safe and lovely holiday season! We had a great time, and I was finally able to take a breather from what has been a tremendous flurry of craziness at work.

The next step after New Year’s – resolutions – represents a chance for everyone to voice what they hope will come to pass this year: lose some weight, save some money, declutter the house, what have you. Rather than doing my typical navel-gazing, I’m turning the resolution thing around for this post and will list what I hope to see happen in the Winnipeg food world in 2013.

Framed.

There’s already been one huge announcement: the owner of Hermano’s announced today that he is in negotiations to reopen the revolving restaurant at Fort Garry Place. Better yet, the restaurant – which will be appropriately called Prairie 360 – will focus on locally-grown, Manitoba-inspired food. I am so thrilled about this, and am sending all the good vibes I can at this venture. They hope to open the new restaurant this fall.

I have a few other things that I’m hoping for this year, as well:

Backyard chickens and bees. First, I would like the city of Winnipeg to come to a sane and progressive decision about allowing residents to keep backyard chickens and bees. To be honest, I think the chicken people are sort of their own worst enemy (really? taking a chicken to a council meeting? That’s step 2 in “how to alienate your audience”…), but I’m hoping that their report is well-received. Having clear suggestions on how to limit the impact of backyard chickens and bees is a great step, and I’m looking forward to seeing how council responds.

More food trucks. Last year, Bartley Kives of the Winnipeg Free Press did a great piece on the state of food trucks and other street eats in Winnipeg. He detailed why there weren’t many (oppressive regulations) and explained what the city was doing to actively discourage them (shutting down stands operated by established eateries). On the other hand, other cities, like Toronto and Vancouver, have been actively encouraging food trucks with festivals and a expansion of licenses issued. We saw some growth this past summer, with new entries like Pimp My Rice, Stuff It and Little Bones. I’d love to see this continue in 2013.

More accessible restaurant inspection reports. This is a topic I’ve been advocating for a while, so I’m not holding my breath on seeing any action on it anytime soon. Basically, I’d like to see a more consumer-friendly way to tell how well your favourite eatery has done on its last inspection. My gold standard is the way Toronto does it: colour-coded cards that must be displayed near the front entrance, showing a green, yellow or red card based on their inspection. (The Toronto site also explains, in plain English, the difference between a minor infraction and a major infraction. Manitoba doesn’t make that clear at all.)

However, the province recently took over the inspections for the city of Winnipeg, and they are now in charge of reporting closures and convictions. They do seem to be keeping up with it a bit better than the city did, but I would also like to see if the diner down the street passed with flying green colours. The ball is in their court on this one, and 2013 would be a great year to make this change.

Those are my big three. There are a few others, but I’m interesting in what you think. What would you like to see this year?

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Canned Apple Butter

I knew it was coming, but over the weekend it happened: our freezer is now totally full. Not a scrap more of frozen beans, cauliflower, bacon or ground bison will fit.

We are blessed to be presented with this problem, of course, but it is still a problem. See, I went and bought about nine pounds of Goodland apples at the farmers’ market, and now I had nowhere to put them. The intention was to peel, core and slice them, toss them with sugar and spices, portion them out into freezer bags and then freeze them for making apple pie this winter. Our little freezer space problem nixed that idea.

So I turned to plan B: making apple butter and canning the results.

Apple Butter

Canning is one of those devoted foodie things that I love the idea of, and I love the results, but – my gosh, it is a pain in the ass to actually do. It involves either using a pressure canner, which scares the daylights out of me, or boiling a huge pot of water on the stove during the hottest part of the summer. Then you have to clean and sanitize the jars, sanitize the lids, cook your food, fill the jars, process them, and then give up precious counter space for a full day while they cool.

But you know what? I do it anyway. I do it because I love opening a jar of summer while a blizzard howls outside. Eye on the prize and all that. If you’re interested in getting started doing canning yourself, I recommend reading the tutorials on the Bernardin website or at the National Center for Home Food Preservation. Or if you prefer blogs about canning, there are two that I like: Well Preserved, written by a couple in Toronto, and Food in Jars, written by a lady in the US.

Apple butter is a fruit butter, which means that it’s basically apples cooked down with sugar and spices until the sugar caramelizes and the mixture becomes thick. It’s a staple condiment in the heart of Amish country, near where I grew up, but I was surprised to discover that it’s relatively unknown in Winnipeg.

Apple Butter Label

I’m well versed in ways to eat apple butter, but this was my first time making it. I probably could have cooked it down further, but I wanted to go to bed sometime before 1:00am. I basically ended up with a thick, spreadable applesauce; not exactly what I wanted, but close.

I think next time*, I’ll cook it down in a crockpot. If you cook it long and low with the crock’s lid tilted slightly, you apparently get a much more consistent texture (and you don’t have to spend all evening stirring a pot).

Recipes for apple butter vary, but here’s what I did:

  • About 9 lbs of Goodland apples (three bags), peeled, cored and sliced
  • 1/2 cup apple cider
  • 2 TB apple cider vinegar or lemon juice
  • 2 cups granulated sugar
  • 2 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp allspice
  • 1/2 tsp ground cloves

In a stainless steel pot of boiling water, cook the apple slices until they’re tender. Drain.

Return the apples to the pot and put the pot over low heat. Add the apple cider. Smash the apples into a chunky paste with a spoon and bring to a “boil” for about 20 minutes. This will be a popping, spattery, mess-making boil. Don’t cover the pot, though, because you need the liquid to cook off.

Add the vinegar or lemon juice, sugar and spices. Stir well. Cook over low heat until the mixture reaches the desired consistency. (This could take 1-2 hours.) Puree the apple butter mostly smooth with an immersion blender, or work out your frustration by mashing pieces against the side of the pot with a spoon.

Using proper canning techniques, fill 125ml jelly jars and process in a water bath canner for 10 minutes.

*Yes, next time. I am such a masochist.

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Get Your Half Pints at the Flatlander’s Beer Festival

I totally admit to not being much of a wine person. Instead, my Midwestern upbringing has made me a beer person. I don’t dislike wine, but when given the choice I prefer malt and hops to grapes. This has led to some interesting encounters; for example, a waiter at Sydney’s once said “Aren’t you cute!” when I asked for a pre-dinner beer instead of a cocktail. Fortunately, the rising popularity of craft brews is allowing us beer people a lot more variety and choice when it comes to our beer.

One of the rising stars on the Canadian craft brew scene, of course, is Winnipeg’s very own Half Pints. They just got some national attention from Jordon St. John when he profiled them for the Sun. As far as I’m concerned, they deserve the positive attention. In his column, he mentioned one of their recent seasonal brews, Noche De Los Alebrijes.

Noche De Los Alebrijes

Noche De Los Alebrijes is a dunkle lager. I am normally not a fan of darker-coloured beers, but this one has really won me over. It has a really rich flavour that manages to not be overwhelming, and fades into an intriguing chocolate aftertaste. I like this beer. I really, really like this beer, and I’m going to be very sad when we’re gone through our hoard and we can’t get anymore. (We went to the Ellice Street MLCC and just about bought them out of stock a few days ago.)

My husband is a fan of the Humulus Ludicrous, a ridiculously bitter IPA that Half Pints put out at the same time as Noche De Los Alebrijes. I’m not a fan of the extreme hoppy taste, but that just leaves more for him.

Half Pints is going to be at the Flatlander’s Beer Festival tonight and tomorrow. They will have Humulus Ludicrous available to sample, along with a cask of a vanilla stout, which I am very interesting in trying.

We went to the beer festival last year and had a fantastic time. (And thank you, Winnipeg Transit, for the ride home.) With your admission you receive five tasting tickets, and you can buy additional tasting tickets at the event.

You also receive a guidebook with space for you to take notes about the beers you’ve tasted. After the event you can peruse your notes, and go to the MLCC to find your favourites from the evening. Last year I added a few more beers to my favourites, including something that I consider a “dessert beer,” St. Louis Kriek. It tastes more like a cherry fruit cooler than a beer, but I can see it taking the same place as an ice wine on a dinner menu.

The Flatlander’s Beer Festival is on September 13-14, from 7:00pm-10:00pm at the Winnipeg Convention Centre. Tickets are available at all MLCCs, or from Ticketmaster. See you there!

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What’s Not at Our Farmers’ Markets

We have returned from spending some time in Ohio, visiting family and friends. As part of our trip, we visited a farmers’ market that has popped up in my hometown, right downtown under an overpass bridge next to the river. It’s nicer than it sounds, and even in the morning we were glad for the shade.

The local food movement isn’t confined to Manitoba, fortunately. Wherever you go during the summer, you’re likely to find some kind of market where farmers sell direct to the consumer. (Some of them might not be quite so local, so do your homework before you go.) Ohio and Manitoba are a few zones apart in terms of the things that you can grow. There were lots of similar items, but one of the things that is missing from the Manitoba markets was peaches.

Peaches at the Kent Farmers' Market

Until I moved away, I totally took fresh peaches for granted. The ones we get from Ontario are nice; in fact I found some delicious ones at Safeway last week. But they’re not this fresh. I really miss them. Manitoba excels at blueberries, while Ohio does not, but peaches… Mmm.

Another thing that stood out at the market we visited was dairy. There were at least two goat milk producers at the market. One of them was selling litres of frozen goat milk, and both of them sold various types of goat cheeses, including flavoured fetas. I thought about how wonderful it would be to complete my shopping at the market: fruit, vegetables, eggs, milk… and dairy.

But unless the law changes, that’s unlikely to happen.

There is nothing in the Manitoba guidelines or regulations preventing dairy from being sold. The problem – and here is where my naïveté about economics becomes evident – is the agriculture marketing boards in Canada. They limit who can sell a product, when, to whom, and for how much. For dairy, farmers have to buy quotas – which are limited – in order to produce to sell. This effectively keeps new, smaller producers out of the market, and also removes the possibility of niche producers from jumping in to grab the smaller market share available at a farmers’ market. (And please, if I’m totally out to lunch on this, let me know in the comments.)

I am torn on this issue. I see the benefits of having a mandatory marketing board, but the consumers are really the losers in these cases. I remember the hullabaloo over Peak of the Market’s clamping down on local potato producers. That was eventually resolved, but the thought of having to fight that battle for every type of food stuff is a bit exhausting. This type of marketing board is becoming less and less popular, and I’m sure everyone in Winnipeg knows what the Canadian government did to the Canada Wheat Board.

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For someone who just wants to buy locally-produced food, preferably directly from the producer and without having to travel all over the countryside to get everything I need, this is all a bit depressing. In the meantime, I’ll do what I can, and keep my eyes open for new and exciting food available at our own local markets.

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Where there’s smoke…

My husband has taken up smoking again. Only this time, he smokes with woodchips and food.

After debating and researching and shopping around and hoarding Canadian Tire money for several years, we bought a Bradley 4-rack digital electric smoker about a month ago. My husband had wanted a smoker for quite a while, so this is now his new baby.

DSC03140

Now I know that the purists are going to rabble here and say that the best smokers are charcoal, and that we’re settling for second best with an electric smoker. Yes, charcoal is better. If we had unlimited amounts of time to laze around waiting for charcoal to be ready to go, we’d have a charcoal smoker and a charcoal grill. However, we don’t have unlimited amounts of time, and I like eating dinner before 9pm. Therefore, we have a propane grill and an electric smoker.

The Bradley smoker that my husband ended up buying has a few features that are really nice. First, it’s digital, so setting the cooking temperature is a breeze. It will also maintain that temperature for as long as required without any babysitting. And it can be used to cold smoke things like cheese, which was a “nice to have” for my husband. (Cold smoking isn’t something that we’ll be trying in the middle of summer, but on a cool spring day it worked great.) Finally, the Bradley website has an active and friendly forum if you have questions or problems. (The forum members are also quite handy, and are willing to show off their hacks and homemade smokehouses. Lots of ideas there!)

On the downside, it takes proprietary “bisquettes” of wood for the smoke. These can be a bit pricey, since one bisquette will only burn for 20 minutes, but we’ve been keeping our eyes open for them and getting them when they’re on sale. Also, the cord is a bit short. This may present a problem if you lack convenient outdoor outlets. On that same thread, it is electric, so I wouldn’t consider it an all-weather smoker. Again, a smokehouse might be in our future when we redo the backyard.

20120420

So far, he’s smoked cheese, tofu, a whole chicken, a pork tenderloin, and ribs. We were working up to the ribs, and boy – were they worth waiting for!

The baby back ribs were doused with the Sweet Chili rub from Bon Vivant and smoked with hickory at 275°F for two hours. We then wrapped the ribs in foil, and stuck them in the oven at 275°F for an hour. The packets were opened, the juices saved, and the ribs went back in the oven for one more hour. The reserved juices were then mopped onto the ribs, and they went under the broiler for about two minutes, just until the juices started bubbling.

DSC03139

Wow! I’m not even sure what to tweak with this method, because the ribs came out so good. It helped that we started with a quality product from Frig’s, and the rub and the smoke added just the right amount of flavour to enhance, rather than cover up, the taste of the ribs.

I’m sure I’ll have more to say about our smokey adventures in the next while.

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Spring is springing?

The weather forecast for the summer predicts a hot, dry summer across the Prairies.

…really? Could have fooled me. The spring started off promising, but we seemed to have settled into a rather cool, wet period for the last few weeks.

Or maybe I’m just getting impatient. See, I haven’t been able to get my garden in yet. My seedlings are started, my whole seed order has arrived… I just need to wait until the garden warms up and dries out a bit. Hopefully I’ll get that chance next weekend. I’m starting to worry about my tomato seedlings, since they’ve been shuffled in and out of the garage so much lately. I may need to start fertilizing them to keep them happy if I can’t plant them out soon.

20120425

I did manage to get my peas and lettuce in about a month ago, though, so they are coming along nicely. They both thrive in the cool and wet, so we should have peas by the end of June, and butterhead lettuce before that.

Every year I try something new, something that I’ve never attempted to grow before. Brussels sprouts, cabbage, eggplant, broccoli and sweet melons have all made an appearance in my garden. This year, I’m attempting artichokes. Artichokes are tricky in this climate, since they won’t produce in their first year, and they aren’t hardy in this climate and thus won’t survive the winter. But the variety I’m trying can (apparently) be fooled into thinking they’ve gone through a winter by setting them out in chilly weather while they are seedlings. The cool temperatures we’ve been having have helped with this, so at least it’s helping me out that way.

But, even if the weather prevents me from getting my garden in this weekend, another sign of summer will be arriving: the St. Norbert Farmers’ Market! The first market of the year will open on Saturday, June 2 at 8am, and will run until 3pm. The Wednesday market will also open next week, starting June 6.

Also, we’ve already started making pilgrimages down to Crampton’s Market on Waverley, which recently opened for the summer.

Have heart! Summer is on the way. We just have to be patient, right?

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Manitoba Food Bloggers (minus 1): Get Your Goodies Bake Sale

Tomorrow, May 18th, the Manitoba Food Bloggers will be having a bake sale from 10am to 2pm at Aqua Books to support Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution Day.

In case you’ve been living under a rock, Jamie Oliver is the adorable British celebrity chef who has taken on childhood obesity and food ignorance as his favourite cause. Jamie was the 2010 TED Prize winner; you can watch his prize speech here. May 19, 2012 has been designated Food Revolution Day, on which people are urged to teach people about food, food issues, healthier lifestyles and better nutrition. Funds raised at Food Revolution Day events will go towards food education projects run by the Jamie Oliver Foundation, such as the Food Education Box (you can a check out a sample lesson).

Chocolate Chip Cookies

In addition to the fundraiser, participating bloggers will have their eligible goodies judged as part of the Big Bake Off, sponsored by Manitoba Canola Growers. Fabulous prizes!

So, head on over to Aqua Books (still open in its Garry Street location) on Friday, May 18 to sample some goodies baked by people who know what they’re talking about, and support a good cause at the same time!

(No, I’m not participating in the bake sale. First, I’m not a baker. I have no trouble subjecting my family and even coworkers to my rather mediocre baking, but the thought of offering it up to strangers – for money, no less! – just seems like so much hubris. And secondly, I’m burningly shy around new people, and have yet to make it to any of the Manitoba Food Blogger events that have happened. I’ll go to one eventually, I’m sure, but I just haven’t been able to work up the nerve yet. Meanwhile, I’ll just feign dead over here… after I eat my cookies from the bake sale, of course.)

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We’re Digging In

This summer, Dig In Manitoba, an initiative of Food Matters Manitoba, is showing Manitoba families that eating local can be easy.

The Dig In Challenge dares local families to discover the local food possibilities this summer. Challenge participants pledge to shift at least $10 of their weekly food budget towards, try at least two new Dig In Challenge activities a month, and (optionally) to attend Dig In workshops. Also, workshop participants will be eligible to win prizes!

Three Sisters

Families who already make an effort to eat locally can participate in Dig Deeper. Dig Deeper participants are limited to only 100 families, but as the name suggests, they will delve deeper into the local food scene by growing their own vegetables, participating in seed-starting and seed-saving workshops, and doing more activities each month.

The Dig In Challenge kick-off is this Saturday, April 21, in the Centre Court at The Forks Market, hosted by Janet Stewart. To sign up for the challenge for free, just visit the pledge page on the Dig In Challenge website.

We will be participating in the Dig In Challenge this summer as well! Because our summer is going to be a bit busy we can’t commit to the Dig Deeper Challenge, but I’m happy to be participating even in a small way.

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The Grilled Cheese Project

Today is National Grilled Cheese Day! Or at least it is in the United States. And as I was born and raised in the States, grilled cheese (or as I used to occasionally call it, toasted cheese) runs in my blood. (Err, not literally. That would be gooey.)

To me, a grilled cheese sandwich is the ultimate comfort food. Paired with a bowl of tomato soup, it can help me can get over any wrong and make the world seem sane again, if only for a little while. It’s a wonderful slate for experimentation, or just eating straight up after a busy day. It’s fast. It’s filling. It’s portion-controlled. What’s not to love about the humble grilled cheese?

Grilled cheese.

Therefore, I took a bit of umbrage with the snotty editorial about the holiday in the Globe and Mail today… Especially the insinuation that the only grilled cheese worth talking about is one that’s been fancied up with extra-stinky cheese or caramelized onions or bourbon-soaked mushrooms or hydroponically-grown tomatoes tended by virgins.

No love for the basic butter, cheese, bread combo? Hmph. Elitist foodie jerks.

Anyway, I figured today would be a good day to launch my Grilled Cheese Project (GCP). This project will be two pronged. First, I’ll be using the GCP tag to document my own homemade grilled cheese adventures. I’ve been making my standard grilled cheese sandwiches ever since I moved out on my own, but I also like experimenting with the basic recipe. A blog I follow called Grilled Cheese Social has some great ideas for twists on the old-school sandwich, and I may try some of her recipes. Also, Winnipeg is lucky to have several awesome cheese shops (as well as several locally made cheeses) so I must try some of these cheeses out in a grilled cheese.

Second, I will use the GCP to look at and write about what is available for grilled cheese in restaurants around Winnipeg. You’d be surprised how many places serve grilled cheese that you wouldn’t expect would have it. Sometimes it’s right on the menu, but sometimes you just have to ask. When evaluating the grilled cheeses I find around town, I will use a modification of the Grilled Cheese Invitational classification system:

  • Basic: The ingredients can only be cheese and bread, and a fat of some kind (usually butter).
  • Fancy: A grilled cheese sandwich that has a variety of ingredients, while still staying recognizable as a grilled cheese sandwich (the Grilled Cheese Invitational rules state that the interior ingredients must be 60% cheese).
  • Dessert: A sweet grilled cheese sandwich that has a variety of ingredients, while still staying recognizable as a grilled cheese sandwich (the Grilled Cheese Invitational rules state that the interior ingredients must be 60% cheese).

This won’t necessarily be a competition, though. I just want to know what Winnipeg can do in terms of a grilled cheese.

So what’s your favourite grilled cheese in Winnipeg? What do you put in the ones you make at home?

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